More Ozark Hiking Pictorials

Ball Pond Hollow

Grand Gulf State Park

Hiking Information

ROLF Hiking

Devils Backbone Wilderness Area

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August 3rd, 2002

Summer temperatures were hovering in the mid-90's, with a high humidity. What sane man could ask for better conditions to go on a 4 1/2 mile Ozark off-trail hike within the Devils Backbone Wilderness of the Mark Twain National Forest?

Our host Myron, of the ROLF, arranged for my friend Chebon and myself to be dropped off at the Raccoon Hollow Trail head, Devils Backbone Wilderness, while transporting my vehicle to be waiting for us at the North Fork Recreational Area, Hammond Camp Access. It was 10:30 in the morning and the sun was good until about 8:30 PM in the Ozark hills and hollows. Ten hours for 4.5 miles was about right for the pace we like to take for off-trail hiking, karst exploration, and plenty of breaks to enjoy our surroundings and take pleasure in nature's smallest things.

While we started at the Raccoon Hollow designated trail head, Devils Backbone Wilderness area, we were only on the well worn trail for about 50 yards. From there we ventured off to the nearest descending ravine to start our off-trail Ozark hike (see map for hiked trail), following the unnamed ravine down to where it intersects the Raccoon Hollow intermittent stream. We were not disappointed by the terrain. 

Under our feet was the rock laden, gently sloping, Ozark ground we have grown to love, and hate, hiking. While it is treacherous for the ankles and usually keeps your feet wet, the flora, fauna, and karst rewards of beauty make it worthwhile and then some.

When hiking Ozark hollows expect periodic spots where the elevation will suddenly drop 5-10 feet, creating wet weather waterfalls and  captive pools flowing into a loosing streambed.

As we hiked down Raccoon Hollow toward the river, systematically we stopped, dropped our rucks, and took turns hiking up, down, and along any bluff that showed it might possibly contain a cave. This adds considerable time and energy required for the hike, but one of our main reasons for hiking off-trail ravines is finding wild caves to explore. This Ozarks off-trail hike was no different.

Since the Ozarks were burning up in the August heat, there was not much spring action or flow in the intermittent streams. The few pools remaining were secluded, tranquil, captive, and a great source for water for us (we use a First Need water purifier) and local residents (the game trails were well worn!). 

About Noon we happened upon a nice pool we used as an excuse for an extended break and a chance to refill our water bladders and canteens. After spending some time rehydrating and taking pictures of the captive critters, it was time to hit the trail. After all, a guy can only take front row seats to a crawdad fight for so long, before he needs to move on. The abundance of minnows, crayfish, and other fish indicates this spring-fed pond is hydrated year round.

About 3:30 PM we reached a cool shaded pool of spring water and took a break. It was time for lunch, to top-off our water supplies, and rest our weary feet.

After a nice lunch and rest we moved on down the hollow, slightly picking up the pace as we were starting to move into the latter part of the day. As we hiked towards the river, our fortunes changed as the streambed turned into a solid slab of limestone with a trough cut through it for the trickling stream. Noticeably absent were the large rocks that usually line the intermittent loosing stream that we had followed all day, and their associated perils. The pace picked up with our new friendly terrain.

As the daylight was running on low, we hit a patch of stinging nettles and blind from the crush of the day's activity, brushed up against them. We were both on fire where we had contacted the nettles. We made a quick impromptu stop to dig out the Aloe Vera within the first aid kit. Relief was as instant as the pain had been. We moved on down the ravine, more careful where we were stepping, and within minutes we broke out of Raccoon Hollow where it feeds the North Fork River (this was to be predicted as stinging nettles generally grow predominantly along a stream's banks). 

What a relief, or so we thought. From this point we had planned on hiking along the bank about 1/2 mile upstream to catch a ravine heading back uphill. This plan was based on our map reconnaissance. Upon our arrival at the mouth of Raccoon Hollow we discovered there was no level bank, no sandbar, and the terrain surrounding the shoreline was going to be difficult to hike. Worse yet it was covered in stinging nettles. Since we hike in shorts, the pesky nettles made us immediately re-route. We had 2 hours of daylight left. Time to break out the map and find a new way to the truck.

A quick reference to the map showed we could backtrack (no fun) or cross the river to reach hikeable level ground that led towards our upstream destination. We started looking for a ford. By angling slightly downstream we were able to cross, although the current was strong and required one to face upstream and devote 100% concentration, to avoid slipping on the slick limestone bottom.

Once on the other side of the North Fork we were easily able to find a game trail and start hiking upstream along the bank. We ran into a minimal amount of stinging nettles that were easily avoided. Soon we reached a point where we thought we needed to ford the river (about 1/2 mile upstream from Raccoon Hollow), and we hiked down to the bank using the closest thing we could find to a trail. Upon reaching the rivers edge a crossing spot was quickly spotted, although it was under less than ideal conditions (the water was once again a little high and swift for our preferences for a fording position, requiring total concentration). After the crossing we planned to proceeded up a hollow making for the ridgeline, follow the ridgeline uphill a bit, and then descend on its opposing face towards the North Fork Recreational Area at Hammond Camp, via a very steep hollow.

By now we had given up any hope of additional exploration, photography, or rest breaks, and were concentrating on getting back to the truck before dark. Since we knew the last 1/4 mile of our hike was down what was likely to be near bluff conditions, we didn't want to finish our hike in the dark (although we had professional grade headlamps and several flashlights with our caving gear).

As we watched the sun start to disappear below the westerly ridge, we moved our hike from up the gentle grade of the ravine to up the steep slope of the ridge's side. Taking an angle favorable to simultaneously reaching the hill top level as we traveled our northerly leg towards our destination, after many huffs and puffs and a determined pace the terrain finally somewhat leveled out and we declared a 5 minute break. The humid air smothered us as the sun slowly dipped from a useful status.

After a short 10 minute hike along the ridge toward our target hollow, we reached its edge where we could start the descending trip to the river. The grade was fairly steep, but it was the shortest route and the only one close by that looked feasible, while on trek to our waiting vehicle.

While descending down the ravine, which turned into near bluff conditions as we approached the North Fork below, we came upon what looked like would be a giant wet-weather waterfall with a pool below, as the bluff circled the lower ground. Unfortunately, the ravine was dry and the twilight was dim, as was the view. We moved on while noting that the hollow deserved a return trip in the wet weather of the spring. As we hiked on down we came to another sheer drop, of about 30 feet or so, only along a straight edge of a bluff rather than an Ozark circular spring pool ,as we had just passed. A short hike along the descending edge found us a place to climb down, with only a 10 foot drop to reach the lower level ground. 

From there we busted out of the brush onto the North Fork, a welcome sight in our weary state. As we proceeded into the river to cool off, we emerged from the brush right in front of a group of campers at the Hammond Camp campgrounds. I would be surprised if they had not smelled us before they heard or saw us. They looked surprised as two guys soaked from head to toe with sweat and river water, all of their front sides stained with wet clay from belly crawling through caves, carrying large ruck sacks, and looking beat had emerged from the bluff. They immediately took interest and wondered where we had been and where we were going. After a short courteous conversation, we hiked on as relief was within a half mile and we were ready to end the adventure. Soon enough we reached the truck, broke out the towels and cold beverages, and relaxed for a few moments as we chatted with Floyd (caretaker of North Fork Recreational Area, Hammond Camp Access). A short ride later and we were back in the secluded luxury of the Mountain Log Lookout Cabin, throwing the frozen lasagna in the oven, and recanting the adventures and finds of the day. 

What a great day on the North Fork!

Whenever I off-trail hike through the Ozark karst topography, it is primarily in the quest of finding, and then exploring, wild caves. On this trip we found two caves, of which only one is worth mentioning. It was a little difficult to find, but once inside offered two branches for exploring, one of which goes for around a hundred yards or so at least (depending on how long you like to crawl).

Due to the sensitive nature of wild cave locations unmarked on USGS maps, I never reveal the exact route hiked when I discuss any wild cave that I have found or explored. What you will find here is the main route from point A to point B, but not the side trails explored, whether or not they yielded positive or negative results. Any mention of caves is intentionally void of clues as to its specific location. Any qualified caver may request cave locations through their local grotto, to be addressed to the Webmaster

• Please follow all hiking safety rules.
• Please respect the rights of the private land owners bordering the Devils Backbone Wilderness.
• This hike is moderately challenging. Please be prepared.
• Before entering any cave please be aware of caving safety rules, preservation rules, and have the proper gear and training.
• Be sure and notify someone of your hiking route, time of return, and pack plenty of water and snacks for the trip. A compass, map GPS, and the knowledge to use them are recommended.
• If hiking in the summer heat, be sure and hydrate well. We consumed over 1.5 gallons of water each (during August) over our 10 hours on the trail.
• Email the Webmaster (who wrote this article) for more details or if you have any questions.
  

Pests and Offending Plants:

• Like the rest of the North Fork River area I've visited, there was a noticeable lack of flying pestering insects (NO mosquitoes at all!)
• Ticks were extremely mild for a summer trip, with only 5 encountered for the two of us over the 10 hour hike.
• Plan on getting a few chiggers or take precautions (I do not use any bug repellent when I'm at the North Fork, as it is not needed in my opinion and I prefer not to spray chemicals on my body when possible. I usually get 3-5 chiggers per leg for a full weekend of hiking in shorts and boots)
• When you're off-trail hiking in the Summer, plan on finding more than your share of spider webs. By using a walking stick, or dead tree branch, tearing them down before walking into them removes the unpleasantries and will not hinder your pace or experience.
• Poison ivy/poison oak is common within the Mark Twain National Forest and should be avoided if you are allergic to it. See this link for help in identifying poison ivy and poison oak.
• Stinging Nettles are sometimes encountered near or on the river's bank (although not nearly as common as you will find on the Current River) and should be avoided. I always carry a tube of Aloe Vera for instant relief of any contact with stinging nettles. See this link for help in identifying stinging nettles.
• Thorn laden brush is periodically encountered when hiking, which is usually easy to see and detour around.