North Fork of the White, Trout for the Soul.

Deep in the heart of the Missouri Ozark region lies an incredible place. It is a place where one can seek refuge from the masses of humankind, stresses of the working world, fouled air, steel and concrete of the cities, media blitzkriegs, insulting television, billboards, cell phones, e-mail messages and pounds upon pounds of junk mail. It is a place where one can at once dismiss the sense of being overwhelmed by all of these things and find solace in a place of inspiring natural beauty. It is a place where the gentle sound of rushing water and of wind whispering in the trees paves the way to examine one’s consciousness and look deep into the inner self.

It is a place where those fly fishers who are seeking extremely wary, brilliantly colored and extraordinarily powerful trout can find them. It is a place where stealth and presentation is everything and one where even small wild trout can humble the highly skilled. It is a place where the fishing is as challenging as the spring creeks of the West or hallowed waters of the East and as serene as one’s imagination can create.

This place is the River of Life, or ROLF, on the North Fork of the White River in southern Missouri. The North Fork, as it is referred to by the locals, and the ROLF together can create an experience that will live long in memory and create a longing to return after departure. Nestled away in a heavily treed valley within a gated area near the sleepy hamlet of Dora, guests of the ROLF have access to about a mile of the North Fork. There, mighty rainbows and browns thrive, Otters go about their business and majestic Bald Eagles keep watch over the River from high in the treetops.

The owner’s of the ROLF, Ann and Myron McKee, are humble, sincere, hospitable and attentive hosts. They are, strong in faith and uncommon in desire to ensure an enjoyable fly fishing event and their charm and gentleness will melt the crust of even the most hardened curmudgeon. Myron, Ann and their beloved ROLF cannot be separated from the North Fork experience. They are one in the same.

Upon arriving at the ROLF in late April, Myron’s greeting was warm and confident: “Welcome to the best fly fishing in the Midwest.” This writer, being an occasional curmudgeon who has fished trout waters in seventeen States during the past four years, many of them in the Midwest, raised an eyebrow and silently thought, we’ll see. Whoever reads this may have surmised the Curmudgeon became a believer.

Ann or Myron can describe their property, guest quarters and services. The purpose of this writing is to try to describe the challenge of the North Fork’s rainbows and browns and a somewhat current fishing report. To adequately describe the complete experience is beyond this writer’s capabilities.

The North Fork begins in the Mark Twain National Forest some miles North of the ROLF. The best trout waters start about two and a half miles above the ROLF near the privately held Rainbow Springs. Much of the River’s banks are also private, but all of Missouri’s waterways are public. Once access has been gained, one has privileges within the banks the entire length of the River. Guests of the ROLF have immediate access to “Rainbow Alley,” “The Falls” and “Jack’s Run,” about a mile of prime trout water. In all, about six miles of the River, from the upper outlet of Rainbow Springs to Blair Bridge, fall under Missouri’s Wild Trout Management Area regulations, where only flies and artificial lures may be used. While known mostly as a place for canoeing, this wild trout water is little known outside of southern Missouri and northern Arkansas.

The North Fork is gin clear, cool year round and it runs atop granite and pebbled rock and it’s mossy and algae covered bed is as slick as greased marble. Wading without felt soles is an invitation to a dunking. The insect life is varied and prolific, producing caddis, mayflies, stone flies and a host of midges. The most productive approach to fishing these little known waters is by flat bottom boat or canoe, stopping well above riffles and wading to them whenever possible. However, aluminum boats are noisy and the sight of any craft will send the rainbows and browns scurrying for cover. A perfect craft for fishing this River is a kick boat, such as a Hobie Float Cat. Sharp rocks or tree branches while traversing riffles can easily damage watercraft with inflatable bottoms.

Virtually all of the riffles and runs hold fish, some of which are huge, but all of them hold Ph. Ds in the ways of fishermen. One must work the runs and riffles quietly and thoroughly, sometimes switching flies often until one produces. All flies must be presented completely drag free and with patience. Only then will these wary browns and rainbows take the fly and reward the hunter. The take is almost always very subtle. The clumsy, loud, impatient or inattentive need not apply. One fish, 18” or greater may be kept, but catch and release is the order of the day and nets appropriate for that purpose are recommended to minimize possible harm to these beautiful creatures.

Fly fishers embarking on a maiden voyage to the North Fork would be well advised to secure guide services. Shelby Nold of Springfield, MO has knowledge of the River, knowing where fish hold and which flies will likely be productive. Although he fishes little himself, Myron too may offer to take a guest to the water. Having lived at the ROLF for nearly twenty years, his knowledge of the River is no doubt unparalleled. He can also arrange for other guides if Shelby or he is not available.

During a two and a half-day period at the end of April and into May, this writer connected with and landed a dozen powerful and brilliantly colored rainbows and browns. Given these fish are wild, easily spooked, super-savvy and wise to the ways of fishermen wielding flies, that was as good a catch as anyone can expect. Each successful land was a huge victory replete with its rewards. The largest brought to the net was a 16” rainbow that was captured only grudgingly and released quickly. The largest heart-thumper was lost - a huge brown, easily five + pounds, snapping the 6x tippet during an evasive maneuver like a hot knife slicing through butter.

Size 12 Golden Stoneflies, size 12 Olive Flashbacks and small Caddis all worked, but the golden Stone was the biggest producer. Sometimes, the unlikely and unusual fly will reward the fly fisher with a surprise. Working the tail of a run under Shelby’s tutelage, this writer connected with and landed a gorgeous 14” brown, using a size 12 Bead Head Flashback Prince Nymph. An unusual fly, with out a doubt, but productive at the end of a 12’ 6x fluorocarbon leader.

Fish will hold in likely places, such as in the seams between current and slow water. They can also be found in depressions, some of which are slight, around large rocks and under fallen trees, but there are few such trees on this river. Sight fishing in the slower runs can be maddening because of the clear water, but highly rewarding when the take is achieved. Mostly rainbows will hold in the sand channels in the rock bed, but an occasional brown can be found there too. Both the browns and rainbows are opportunistic feeders and they are not likely to take, unless the fly is extremely well presented, is drag free and drifts to within a few inches of the fish’s mouth. When sight casting, only an approach from downstream behind the fish and quarter casting upstream will prove to be worth the effort.

The time for dries is during the golden hour, about an hour or so prior to dark. According to Myron and Shelby, Rainbow Alley can be very productive during that period. The Caddis is the steak and potatoes when the hatch comes.

Just being on this beautiful River in this wonderful little corner of the world is its own reward. Outsmarting and catching these wily fish is a bonus. A lazy float through the slow water will likely reward the observant with Otter playing in the River, Mink scurrying along the banks or Kingfishers hunting for food. During the spring, the attuned may hear the subtle purring of a hen Turkey and the Gobbler’s unmistakable response. Incredibly clear water reveals huge browns and rainbows, frustrating the eager fly fisher because they’ll run for cover at the slightest raise of the rod. Just seeing these large wild trout is reward enough.

This writer, having fished a number of the well known waters of the East, many rivers and streams in the Midwest, at least one fabled river in Canada and a half dozen small streams in Ontario’s Saugeen Watershed, agrees with Myron. The North Fork is the best fly fishing in the Midwest – and beyond. Of course, beauty always lies in the eye of the beholder. But, in this observer’s view, only the rivers and streams located in the majestic and magical places of the Great West, such as the Madison, Yellowstone, Fire hole, Henry’s Fork or even some in New Mexico or Colorado can top the North Fork of the White. You will form your own judgment of this magnificent place if you take the time and have the patience and skill.