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Trip Report: North Fork of the White River

By Spencer Turner

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Mid-Missouri Trout Unlimited Report, May 1999

The suburban rocked gently as we approached the Cross Roads general store, turned east to the North Fork of White River and our lodging at River of Life Farm. Each year Mid-Missouri chapter of Trout Unlimited reserves a cabin for a spring weekend of trout fishing and socializing; and 12 members from Columbia, St. Louis, and Jefferson City were converging on the North Fork.

"I'm driving home." John Cleek commented as he gripped tightly the roof handle as we bounced down the hill to the river valley. "The closer we got, the faster you drove."

He was right. After 30 years and hundreds of trips, the North Fork still pulled at me for the next fix. That first visit in spring of 1969, a float from Hammond's Camp to Blair, produced only a couple of small rainbows, all less than 10 inches and no browns; however, it foraged a love affair that still burns hotly even through I approach elder-statesmen age...Not old just better. And, trout fishing is much better now...special trout regulations have worked their magic on the trout population and a whole industry has built up around trout fishing on the North Fork of the White. The river has become nationally renowned for its trout fishing and ranked by Trout Unlimited in the top 100 trout streams in the nation.

After a quick unloading of our "stuff," we joined Mike Kruse, Tom Zeigler, and Tammy Atkins, early T.U. arrivals, and headed upstream to Kelly. We launched my canoe and a 14-foot John boat for a short float back to The Falls and River of Life Farm, and a couple of hours of fishing before dark. The North Fork was spring normal...flush but falling, with a little color. Each riffle had standing waves and wading, because of the flow and slick bottom, was tricky.

I could lie and tell you we caught the heck out of trout. We didn't; everyone caught a trout or two, mostly small wild rainbows. The upper float from Kelly to The Falls, can be fickle, but the Rock (pushed into the river about 27 years ago) and the McKee Bridge riffle always produces trout and it did for us. It was dark-thirty by the time we fished through Rainbow Alley and landed at River of Life Farm.

Day two dawned clear and way to early. Early risers sounded like a herd of buffalo...or excited trout anglers...as restless trout anglers piled out of the sack at 5:15 am, stoked up with a quick breakfast, coffee and pulled on waders and boots before heading for the river. We headquartered at River of Life Farm because the river was right outside the front door.

I rolled over for another hour of sleep...bad idea; a pillow bounced off my head. No respect. The excitement was infectious and I joined the herd. Most anglers headed to Rainbow Alley, The Falls, and Jack's Run, all easy walking distance from the a cabin. This mile-long section, not only produces tons of trout each year...MDC surveys show it supports 600 to 800 trout per mile...but also holds lots of large brown and rainbow trout, many over 20 inches. And, most days you can also fish dry flies or soft hackles to rising trout...surface feeding usually begins about an hour before the sun hits the water in the morning. What more could a trout angler want?

Our plans, however, were to float from The Falls to Blair Access, about 3.5 miles. I like to float and fish. A canoe or John boat allows access to more water, and floating allows me to prove, contrary to popular opinion, I don't turnover every time I get in a canoe. It also allows me to renew my love affair with the river.

Love affairs need to be nourished. I nourish mine by fishing through the many pockets and runs, remembering times past and fish caught...and spills taken. It is safe to say, I have swam through every pool from Kelly to Blair at one time or another. And, not to be outdone this year, I slipped and took a dunking in the "Cabin" riffle, which would not have been so bad had I been alone; however, photographs were duly taken to be displayed at some later date...the legend continues.

The highlight of the day came in a thunderstorm, mid-afternoon. As we stood around at the split riffle, rain running off our backs and noses, hoping someone would make a decision to press on to Blair Bridge and takeout, a thoracic surgeon from our group, water streaming off his face from the rain, flailed the water unsuccessfully for 15 minutes as we waited...not a strike. After watching, Mike Kruse, a fishing professional in our group, grabbed his rod and caught three rainbows on three casts just downstream from the surgeon.

"He'd better not have a heart attack tonight," suggested someone from our party as we watched Kruse's performance. "Help might be a long time in coming."

After drying out, several members finished catching the evening hatch in front of the cabin...which for the most part didn't materialize. (This hatch is relatively predictable with May flies, caddis flies, stone flies, working the surface, and trout setting up feeding stations to feed on the smorgasbord of insects.)

Day three wasn't quite so early...something about socializing until after midnight, slowed the early risers down. They waited until almost 6:00 am to wake everyone. We spread out from the McKee Bridge riffle to Jack's Run. The water was dingier than Saturday and I found a small pod of rainbows and browns working the surface, taking emerging insects in the film, downstream from The Falls. I caught a couple of small wild bows using soft hackles (grouse and orange). The last trout came on a prince nymph, fished as a trailer behind a Kruse mole-hair leach.

As we climbed out of the valley heading home, it was quiet in the suburban; a pleasant tiredness settled over us as we remembered those wonderful days spent on the North Fork of the White River at River of Life Farm. Plans for the next trip are already in the making.

Fishing Tips:

Equipment: 4- or 5-wt fly rod; or ultra-light spinning rod; waders with felt soles (chains work also); wading staff; and landing net.

Suggested flies: Prince nymph; scuds; zug bug; black stone nymph; pheasant tail nymph; stimulator; renegade; elk-hair caddis; royal Wulff; soft hackles (grouse and orange most consistent producer); Kruse mole-hair leach; peacock woolly worm; peacock woolly bugger; muddler; and sculpin.

Lures: 1/64, 1/80-ounce jigs; small spinners; small crankbaits.

Spencer E. Turner

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This is copyrighted material. Republishing in any form is prohibited under penalty of law without written permission of the author.

Quail Ridge Publishing and Consulting
5701 E. Mexico Gravel Rd.
Columbia, MO 65202
573 474-6477/ sturne01@mail.coin.missouri.edu

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