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July Trip Report: North Fork of the White River

By Sam T.

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Fly fishing and the pursuit of trout have meant many things to me. I have always been able to get away from the pressures of work and the demands of society when I hold a rod in my hand. The moment of contact with a wild trout is almost too electric and thrilling to describe. Quiet hours on the stream, watching wildlife, thinking quiet thoughts, or not even thinking about anything in particular, have allowed me to go back to the everyday business of life with a feeling of renewal. This time was different; fly fishing brought three brothers together for the first time in ten years.

Jim, the youngest, began to fish with a fly a number of years back using my old equipment. He does so only intermittently, and it had been some time since we fished together. Bill, the middle brother, has always been an avid fisherman, but only with casting and spinning gear. I finally got Bill to buy an outfit this Spring, and we arranged to meet at the River of Life Farm to fish the North Fork together. So this fifty-some angler dragged brother Bill and my pop-up Coleman down to Myron's place, and we were the first campers to ever use his new spots. Bill and I paid our respects to Myron and Toby the dog, then set the camper up. Myron was quite relieved when everything worked as advertised. Jim arrived about 11:00 AM on July 10, and we were all together again.

We rigged up as quickly as possible and waded in at Hilburn's riffle. Bill had never fished moving water with a fly, so I showed him the rudiments of mending and dealing with current and we started in. Although I had fished the North Fork a few times in other areas, this was new water to me. Nevertheless, it took only a few minutes for me to hook up with a nice Brown.

A nice brown trout caught by Sam.
Nice Brown trout caught by Sam.

Jim got a little Rainbow some time later, then provided the comic relief for the day when he took a plunge into the water in dramatic fashion. I always appreciate this act of kindness; it means I don't have to do it. Bill took a little longer to get used to the dynamics of this style of fishing, but he was finally able to connect with a couple of nice fish.

We stayed at this riffle for several hours, then had to say goodbye to Jim, who had to get back to work in Branson. It was a short reunion, but a memorable one. I got a half dozen fish in this session, and upheld one of the oldest adages in fishing by losing the largest, a Brown of 16 or 17 inches. We stayed with a Rubber Legged Stone and Prince combination, with most of the strikes coming on the Stone Fly. This is an interesting pattern, the name of which I can't recall, with a braided black Larva Lace abdomen and a large brown thorax - dubbed and flattened - with a pulled over turkey quill wing case. It looks dangerous, and is very effective.

After a break from the afternoon heat and the aluminum hatch, Myron walked up with us and left us to fish Rainbow Alley. We waded down to the main chute and, between intrusions by canoes, started fishing about 6:30. It was overcast, but still fairly bright, and the sheer number of canoes coming down the river left us dumbfounded. The fish are quite used to this unnatural phenomenon, and Bill caught a nice Brown in a spot where a canoe, with it's somewhat inebriated occupants, had overturned only moments before. Toward dusk, the flotilla disappeared and left us in one of the nicest fishing spots one could ask for. Bill ended the day with a half dozen fish, and I got a dozen or so. We hiked back to our camper in the gathering dusk and enjoyed a quiet evening, with only the sounds of frogs, crickets and cicadas to add substance to the dark.

After a great night's sleep, we awoke to another unusually cool mid-July morning and started in again at Hilburn's riffle. We succeeded in hooking a few fish, then spent the morning fishing from the Falls to the Cave Riffle. I got only one Rainbow in the cave riffle, but we plan to be there someday just before dusk to see if we can get one of the bruisers that must undeniably be there, hidden from the eyes of daytime fishermen by the heavy current. By this time we were tired enough for the traditional mid-afternoon nap, and made our retreat to the camper after a nice chat with a local resident near the Cave Riffle.

Rainbow Run had treated us kindly the night before, so we returned there as the sun began to sink behind the trees to the west. We had to share the run with a particularly territorial beaver, which managed to scare us silly several times by blowing up at close range! I had no desire to tangle with this fellow and gave him plenty of room. The Sunday hatch of canoes was very light, and it wasn't long before we had the water to ourselves.

We began to hook up fairly regularly, and even had doubles on twice. The Browns were all between 14 and 16 inches, with the Rainbows generally a little smaller. All of these fish were fat and healthy, with beautiful markings and no hook gouges or line scars. Bill hooked the nicest Rainbow of the trip and got to hear his reel scream in earnest before I could slip the net under the fish. I acted as photographer and recorded the moment for him. For the record, some of the fish Bill hooked came to a green caddis pupa.

I left Bill to the main chute and started easing down the east bank, roll casting with the trees at my back. I had gotten a few more hook ups, then saw my indicator move and felt the solid, unyielding pull of a larger fish. As it moved to the middle of the river and started shaking it's head, I knew I was into a big Brown. After a long, cautious battle, I maneuvered the fish into a quiet eddy and saw it for the first time. This was a fish I would have been excited about on any of the premier western rivers. The Brown decided to increase my pulse rate with a clean jump, then bull-dogged around the eddy for a while until I was able to slip the net under him with a whoop of relief and excitement!

I have caught bigger Browns, but never in my life have I held a prettier one. This was an 18 or 19 inch hook-jawed male, thick and heavy, with perfect markings. He could have swum straight from the paper of a Tomelleri illustration. This is the kind of fish which makes a trip stand out in one's memory, with the mind's eye providing the picture. It is now six days later, and I am still excited about this moment in my angling life. Sharing it with my brother made it even better. I hope the pictures do justice to this tremendous fish. I watched it swim away in the gathering dusk, adding another chapter to my fishing life and reminding me that our avocation is one of the greatest in the world. Hooking a few rising trout in the tail-out, above the Rainbow Run, only iced the cake.

We started hiking the mile and a half back to camp when, in a moment of serendipity, Myron came along in his pick-up and offered us a ride. We ate late, then fell into bed like logs.

The river was running clear, with flows between 470 and 430 cfs. Conditions were nearly perfect, and the river gave up a wonderful experience for both an old hand and a beginner. Bill is back in Iowa, Jim is in Branson, and I am back in the comfort of my home. Trips such as this one are a great gift. They need to be savored, appreciated, then stored in one's memory for the future. We are already talking about getting together again in February, when Jim can get away for a few days. I think fly fishing may be the common thread in our lives which, finally, will enable us to stay in touch and enjoy the company of brothers. And the North Fork will be the place which allowed us to start.

Sam T.
Prairie Village, Kansas
17 July, 1999

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